Monday, October 19, 2020
The next morning, we headed north again, picking up the Blue Ridge Parkway and travelled on to Asheville where we visited the North Carolina Arboretum (100 Frederick Law Olmstead Way, Asheville, NC). We found it well maintained and bursting with color from the soft maples lining the parking area to the “quilt pattern garden” that is the centerpiece of the place. There is also an incredible array of Bonsai trees and miniature garden scenes as well as eclectic artwork dotting the grounds among the fountains and paved walkways. We stopped for lunch at the garden’s Savory Thyme Café and then – duly refreshed – got back on the road. I found the Blue Ridge Parkway a little tricky to return to coming out of the Arboretum, and if you plan to make a similar journey, I advise caution and deliberation at that point. Although there is signage, the connection is confusing and – once headed along the wrong route – it’s not easy to figure out where you went wrong. Here’s the best hint I can give you: The make-or-break point is within about 100 feet of the Arboretum entrance. Pay close attention to the signs.
Once we made it onto the Blue Ridge Parkway, we headed toward Brevard. Again, the terrain – while challenging – is absolutely wonderful dressed in Fall colors. The air is cool and crisp in the mountains, the water is clear and cold, and has a mind of its own as it rushes in a cacophony of sound through the rocks around you. Among our favorite stops were Looking Glass Falls (a feature of the Davidson River,) and the Mills River Valley Overlook along the way.
Near Looking Glass Falls, in the Pisgah National Forest is US 276 (The Forest Heritage Scenic Byway), is one of our favorite waterfalls, called Moore Cove Falls. It’s about a ¾ mile hike from the small parking area (by small here, I mean a half-dozen vehicles) identified by a large sign along the way. The trail is clear but neither level nor paved. It’s easy to trip over large roots and stones, so use caution. When we finally reached the spot, we were rewarded with a 50+ foot waterfall that I was able to climb behind. One hearty soul, arrayed only in a bathing suit, was enjoying the waterfall when we arrived but departed shortly thereafter. (I’m not sure I understand how he endured the icy water, or why he did it voluntarily, but I have never understood those polar bear swim events, either.) I can say with great confidence that the return trip along the trail was far less demanding that the trek up to the falls. It was well worth it, at least to me; one of my favorite memories from the excursion.
